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Cope of Joan de Terès, A...
Room 15



Textiles and clothing

Anonymous

Cope of Joan de Terès, Archbishop of Tarragona

Valencia (fabric and braiding); Catalonia (embroidery)
Fabric and braiding (first quarter of the 16th C.), embroidery (1587 - 1603)
Fabric: velvet brocaded with gold wefts, silk warps, linen, silk and gold wefts; Embroidery: linen tabby, polychrome silk, threads, gold and silver threads
122 x 235 cm
Provenance unknown
MEV 2058

Two corps cut velvet brocaded, fushing warp weave of three with supplementary weft of gold forming loops in the pattern; yellow silk main-warp and pile warp, wefts of linen, yellow silk and of gold thread; made on the velvet draw loom. Braiding of silk and gold made on the braid loom. Velvet and braiding made in Valencia. Scapular and hood with picturial embroidery done on a linen tabby base placed in a frame; they are of needle-painted polychrome silks, of figures, of half chain stitch, and of gold and silver couching point, chequered and filled. Embroidery almost certainly done in Tarragona. Fabric decorated with large pomegranates inside which there is a smaller pomegranate of looped gold. Most of the examples conserved of this type of velvet made in Spain are from the first quarter of the 16th century. The scapular has seven scenes, in Renaissance style, both with regard to the depiction of the figures and for their architectural contextualisation. The central one depicts God the Father surrounded by clouds. The side scenes are topped by Renaissance semicircular arches resting on two side pillars, and on top of the arches there are baskets with naturalistic floral decoration. The side scenes show Saint Peter with the book and the keys, Saint John the Evangelist on Patmos with the chalice and Saint Roc dressed as a pilgrim, to the right of the central one. On the left: Saint Paul with the book and the sword, Saint John the Baptist with the lamb and Saint Sebastian, dressed as a knight with bow and arrows. All the figures are on a background of chequered gold. The hood also has a gold background, and embroidered on it are the Virgin with the Infant in her arms surrounded by a rosary. Technically the embroidery is very painstakingly done and clearly shows it was done in a prestigious workshop. From the stylistic point of view the embroidery is fully Renaissance, due to the treatment of the figures and the framing and the decoration of the spaces, though it still lacks perspective – the backgrounds are flat. It is a very valuable piece, especially with regard to the fabric.


Room 15
Floor 1
9-10-11 Gothic Art
12-13-14 Renaissance
15-16 Textiles and Clothing
17 Glass